Two green, inexperienced Americans taking their first flight
to of all place, Benghazi, Libya. Riots in the street, roaring sandstorms, and
screaming crowds of Libyans. Landing on one wheel on a windswept runway after
being in the red sand desert for 23 days. Listening to President Kennedy’s
funeral via short wave radio and candle light. Driving for hours across a
trackless desert to see the Lady Be Good a WW II B-24 bomber that was lost in
the desert, and then becoming lost!
Tuesday, June 28, 2016
Thursday, June 9, 2016
Benghazi Journal: Benghazi Journal--a BLOWOUT!
Benghazi Journal: Benghazi Journal--a BLOWOUT!: I’ll be leaving Libya after two more assignments in the desert. Today, I’m back on Santa Fe rig #2, where a good friend, Clyde McFarland...
Benghazi Journal--a BLOWOUT!
I’ll be leaving
Libya after two more assignments in the desert. Today, I’m back on Santa Fe rig
#2, where a good friend, Clyde McFarland, is the tool-pusher. We’re getting
near our main objective, the M-10 Zone, and I’m keeping a close watch on the
drilling. The last sample of drill cuttings I examined is beginning to have a
show of oil. I’m stepping out of the mud-logging trailer to tell the mud-logger
to catch another sample, wash the mud off, and bring it to me—and hurry.
“Jim, as soon as we drill another
five feet, tell the driller to stop drilling and circulate. Check the lag time
and catch a sample of what we have just drilled. I think we’re in the top of
the M-10, and I don’t want to drill any deeper in the zone until I see what the
next sample looks like.”
Jimmy Pearson, who’s in charge of
the monitors in the gas detection trailer and works for me, is up on the rig
floor when Clyde McFarland walks up.
“Richard, we’re getting a drilling
break. Last two feet drilled at two minutes a foot.”
“Sounds like we are in the top of
the M-10,” I reply. “I have Jim catching another sample. After I take a look,
we may want to stop and run a DST.” A DST, which is an abbreviation for
Drill-Stem-Test, is a procedure to test a formation to see if it contains oil
or gas.
As I wait on Jim to wash the sample,
I notice the drill-string is dropping quickly.
“Hey, that last two feet drilled a
minute per foot!” Clyde yells. He’s looking at the geolograph, which marks each
foot drilled. We are in what we call an excellent drilling break, indicating
the bit is drilling a soft, friable, and porous sand—a very good sign, especially
with the show I spotted in the last sample.
“Clyde, tell the driller to
circulate while I check the samples from that drilling break.”
Clyde signals the driller, who sets
the brake and stops drilling. Mud is still being pumped down the drill pipe,
and it will circulate up the cuttings. (Ground up sandstone or limestone)
“We might have something here…
Whoa!” My mouth drops open as drilling mud kicks halfway up the derrick.
Clyde screams at the driller. “Shut it in! Shut it in!
Blowout! Blowout!”
The driller heads for the automation
shut-in leaver, but slips in the drilling mud that is splashing on the rig
floor and falls down. Only seconds have passed since the well started
unloading, but the well is already blowing mud and gas through the top of the
draw-works. In about 10 seconds, it sounds as if a half-dozen freight trains
are coming through the location. We have a full scale blowout on our hands.
Clyde runs toward the substructure
of the rig as the entire crew of Libyans dash past him running for their lives.
That’s when the steady hand of an experienced New Mexico tool-pusher earns his
money. He runs past the fleeing Libyans and heads under the substructure of the
drilling rig to manually close the blowout preventer as the natural gas flow
increases until the shrieking is so loud it pains your ears.
I’m about to join the fleeing
Libyans because the gas and condensate (a natural gasoline) is beginning to
settle around the rig, and I know if a rock from the spewing well hits the iron
substructure of the rig and causes a spark, we’ll be consumed in a huge blast of
fire in seconds. The driller must have hurt his knee because he’s limping
around trying to get in the doghouse to kick in the blowout preventer.
I see Clyde under the rig floor
manually turning the big wheel that operates the blowout preventer as condensate
rains down on him. I literally hold my breath as the valve slowly closes and
the gas flow stops. A few more seconds and Clyde has the well shut-in, and in a
few minutes more, he kicks in the mud pumps to force heavy drilling mud down
the drill pipe to kill the gas flow.
Friday, May 27, 2016
Benghazi Journal: Taking in a movie in Benghazi
Benghazi Journal: Taking in a movie in Benghazi: Benghazi, Libya---1964 .....Two nights ago, we went to an American movie in the town’s movie theater. It had Arabic subtitles, and I thi...
Taking in a movie in Benghazi
Benghazi, Libya---1964
.....Two nights ago, we went to an American movie in the
town’s movie theater. It had Arabic subtitles, and I think we were
the only Westerners in the theater. All movies in Libya have an
intermission, and during that intermission there was a clip of the
radical Egyptian leader Gamal Abdul Nasser, making a fiery anti-
Western speech.
We’re leaning back, not paying any attention to the film clip
until we begin to hear shouting and cheers. Soon the place is
bedlam. Every person—but us—is standing—some on their seats—
chanting, yelling, and screaming at the top of their lungs.
We are in shock, and I take one look at Vertis, and whisper,
“We need to get out of here. Just follow me, and don’t run or act
as if you’re afraid. Smile and nod your head in a positive manner,
if you make eye contact.”
I stand up, and with Vertis hanging on my belt, I gently push
my way up an aisle full of shouting Libyans. I nod, smile, and
occasionally clap my hands seemingly in support of the speech. It
is the longest 20 yards I have ever walked, but we are not having
any problems leaving the theater. Several times, as the Libyan men
look at us, I shake my head vigorously, smile, and yell out, “Yes!”
in Arabic. That’s always enough to elicit a handshake and even a
couple of hugs.
I’m sure that if I understood what Nasser is saying, I would
be furious because he is known for his anti-Western rhetoric. We
make it to our car before either of us says a word. Finally, I smile
and say, “Damn, we missed the last half of the movie.”
Vertis gives me a shove and says, “Go on back and catch a
ride home. I’ll take the car.”
“Well, actually, it wasn’t that good of a movie,” I reply,
crawling behind the wheel.
.....Two nights ago, we went to an American movie in the
town’s movie theater. It had Arabic subtitles, and I think we were
the only Westerners in the theater. All movies in Libya have an
intermission, and during that intermission there was a clip of the
radical Egyptian leader Gamal Abdul Nasser, making a fiery anti-
Western speech.
We’re leaning back, not paying any attention to the film clip
until we begin to hear shouting and cheers. Soon the place is
bedlam. Every person—but us—is standing—some on their seats—
chanting, yelling, and screaming at the top of their lungs.
We are in shock, and I take one look at Vertis, and whisper,
“We need to get out of here. Just follow me, and don’t run or act
as if you’re afraid. Smile and nod your head in a positive manner,
if you make eye contact.”
I stand up, and with Vertis hanging on my belt, I gently push
my way up an aisle full of shouting Libyans. I nod, smile, and
occasionally clap my hands seemingly in support of the speech. It
is the longest 20 yards I have ever walked, but we are not having
any problems leaving the theater. Several times, as the Libyan men
look at us, I shake my head vigorously, smile, and yell out, “Yes!”
in Arabic. That’s always enough to elicit a handshake and even a
couple of hugs.
I’m sure that if I understood what Nasser is saying, I would
be furious because he is known for his anti-Western rhetoric. We
make it to our car before either of us says a word. Finally, I smile
and say, “Damn, we missed the last half of the movie.”
Vertis gives me a shove and says, “Go on back and catch a
ride home. I’ll take the car.”
“Well, actually, it wasn’t that good of a movie,” I reply,
crawling behind the wheel.
Monday, May 23, 2016
Benghazi Journal: Benghazi Journal---coming soon
Benghazi Journal: Benghazi Journal---coming soon: Coming Soon! Benghazi Journal Benghazi, Libya, June 1st, 1964 In the spring of 1964 I took a transfer from Exxon USA to Esso Li...
Benghazi Journal---coming soon
Coming Soon!
Benghazi Journal
Benghazi, Libya, June
1st, 1964
In the spring of 1964 I
took a transfer from Exxon USA to Esso Libya. My new position was to work as a
well-site geologist, assigned to the Benghazi, Libya office. When my wife,
Vertis, and I moved to Benghazi, we were only two years out of college, and neither
of us had ever traveled or lived outside of the southwestern United States. Our
time spent in Libya was immediately prior to the overthrow of King Idris’s
monarchy by Colonel Omar Gadhafi. The impending coup was evident to us as we
interacted with Libyans on a daily basis, and observed the unrest in the
country. Before we left Benghazi there were riots in the street, and one night
we were caught up in a wild, screaming demonstration in a movie theater. I
managed to push my way through the crowd, and pull Vertis out of the theater
unscathed. We lived on the economy. Our
next door neighbors were the English Consulate’s daughter and across the street
lived an Iranian family. Trying to communicate with our family back home, other
than letter writing, was almost impossible. My job required me to fly 150 to
250 miles every two weeks into the Libyan Sahara Desert and spend sometimes as
long as three weeks on a drilling rig before returning to Benghazi. I was one of several geologists who were
responsible for determining if oil was present as the wells were drilled. During one of my many drives across the
road-less desert, I became lost in a sandstorm for the better part of a day and
night, and a few weeks later, I was on a drilling rig when the well blew-out.
For a short time it scattered everyone, and there were some very anxious
moments before the crew got it under control. I also supervised the testing of
a giant discovery oil well, which later produced over 10,000 barrels of oil a
day. But the highlight or maybe the lowlight of my time in Libya happened in
mid-July during the last month of my two year assignment. I traveled over 800 miles southeast of
Benghazi to a remote French drilling rig near the Algerian border. It was
located in the Red Sand Desert of Libya where, because the red sand traps solar
heat, a world record temperature of 138 degrees had been recorded very near
where the well was located. When we flew down from Tripoli in an old DC-3 to
the location and tried to find the drilling rig, we encountered a huge
sandstorm. After circling in the sandstorm for several hours---which was living
hell---we, tried to return to Tripoli. As we approached the runway we had to
make an emergency landing. We ran out of gasoline as we landed. The next
morning the sandstorm had abated, and we flew down to the rig, and twenty-three
days later, I finally flew back to Benghazi. During my time in the desert, I
dodged some of the three million land mines left over from World War II,
traveled cross-country to the home of the World War two British Long Rang
Desert Group’s wartime camp at Kufura Oasis, and journeyed farther south to the
Lady be Good, an American B-24 bomber,
which because of a navigation error, had landed deep in the desert. The remains
of the crew were found in 1959. They died trying to walk out of the desert. Vertis
and I made friends with a number of Libyans, and interacted and worked with
others during the two years we lived in Benghazi. This book is an account of
those two years. It is a window into how life was in Libya before Gadhafi, and
before the more recent revolution sent a once peaceful country spiraling into
chaos. Monday, May 16, 2016
Benghazi Journal: The Lady Be Good
Benghazi Journal: The Lady Be Good: From the Benghazi Journal....... In a little over an hour and a half, I top a little rise and there, sitting in front of a big sand dune,...
The Lady Be Good
From the Benghazi Journal.......
In a little over
an hour and a half, I top a little rise and there, sitting in front of a big
sand dune, is one of the strangest sights I have ever seen. An American B-24,
World War II bomber is sitting beside a low sand dune, looking as if it has
just landed.
At first, I can’t see any damage to
the plane, but as I get closer, I note a bent landing gear and broken
propellers. I pull up to the side of the plane, where the side door is open,
and crawl into the cargo bay. The plane, which looks intact from the outside,
is completely stripped of anything that can be unbolted or pried off—completely
gutted. I guess the exterior riveting that holds the metal to the plane’s frame
is too tough for the desert Bedouins to handle.
Well, after a few minutes of walking
around the plane, I finally climb into the cockpit and sit imagining what an
American pilot would have thought when he landed here. It must have been a
relief to at least be on the ground in one piece, but considering the crews’
fate a fatal crash landing might have been better.
I’ve seen all there is to see and I
have just climbed out of the cockpit and I’m walking over to where I parked my
Land Rover. As I stand beside my Land Rover, I think about what the men who
survived that landing faced when they scrambled out of the plane. Kufra, the nearest
oasis, is some 100 kilometers [MS1] away—an easy drive for me, since I can drive across the
hard-pack of the desert at 80 KMPH. But trying to walk that distance, in a
blazing, summer sun, is impossible.
In 1959, they found the remains of the crew. None
survived the attempt to walk out of the desert. I want to take a souvenir from
the plane, but everything that can be removed already been taken.
Wednesday, May 11, 2016
A Smackover Dog in Libya
Benghazi Journal: Benghazi Journal: Benghazi for beginners: Benghazi Journal: Benghazi for beginners : Two green, inexperienced Americans taking their first flight to of all place, Benghazi, Libya. Ri...
Benghazi Journal
A Smackover dog in Libya---actually his name is Ben----for Benghazi. Richard, Vertis, and Ben are touring the old city of Cyrene.
Thursday, May 5, 2016
Benghazi Journal: Benghazi for beginners
Benghazi Journal: Benghazi for beginners: Two green, inexperienced Americans taking their first flight to of all place, Benghazi, Libya. Riots in the street, roaring sandstorms, ...
Benghazi for beginners
Two green, inexperienced Americans taking their first flight
to of all place, Benghazi, Libya. Riots in the street, roaring sandstorms, and
screaming crowds of Libyans. Landing on one wheel on a windswept runway after
being in the red sand desert for 23 days. Listening to President Kennedy’s
funeral via short wave radio and candle light. Driving for hours across a
trackless desert to see the Lady Be Good a WW II B-24 bomber that was lost in
the desert, and then becoming lost!
Friday, April 29, 2016
Benghazi Journal --overview
Two green, inexperienced Americans taking their first flight
to of all place, Benghazi, Libya. Riots in the street, roaring sandstorms, and
screaming crowds of Libyans. Landing on one wheel on a windswept runway after
being in the red sand desert for 23 days. Listening to President Kennedy’s
funeral via short wave radio and candle light. Driving for hours across a
trackless desert to see the Lady Be Good a WW II B-24 bomber that was lost in
the desert, and then becoming lost!
authorrichardmason.com
Wednesday, March 9, 2016
Benghazi Journal---excerpt
Benghazi Journal will be published in April. Here's an excerpt:
...... The Beaver has just dropped me off at Santa Fe Rig 2. It’s a new location only 10 miles from the coast, and the new Esso port of Marsa Brega. I’m not wasting any time hanging around the rig today. They won’t even start drilling for another 24 hours, so I’m heading down to the coast to see some of the German fortifications left over from World War II.
...... The Beaver has just dropped me off at Santa Fe Rig 2. It’s a new location only 10 miles from the coast, and the new Esso port of Marsa Brega. I’m not wasting any time hanging around the rig today. They won’t even start drilling for another 24 hours, so I’m heading down to the coast to see some of the German fortifications left over from World War II.
I’m driving on a well-marked road that has
been cleared of mines, and has been oiled to keep the dust down. I’m almost to
the coast, and, wow, I just passed a little ridge overlooking the main coast road,
and it looks as if the Germans have just walked away. There are at least three
fortified, sandbagged areas that without a doubt are where German machine-gun
placement have been, and there are stacks of land mines and Jerry cans
everywhere.
The oil companies who operate in
Libya hire land mine clearing crews to come in to be sure there are no mines
within a square kilometer of the drill site, and they also clear a 100-foot
sections along the few roads. It a rather eerie feeling to drive along knowing
what would happen if I veered off the road.
It’s estimated there are 3 million land
mines in Libya, and most of them are along the coast. The air is so dry that
when the land mines are recovered and stacked up beside the road, they aren’t
even rusty.
It’s late in the afternoon, and I
think I’ll stop by the Esso supply camp at Marsa Brega for dinner. It’ll be
better than the rig food.
Yeah,
there’s the dining hall and recreation building, I walk up to a Quonset Hut-type building and poke my head
in. Hey, there’s Sidney Sorenson one of
the Aussie Pilots I know. I’ll join him.
“Hi, Sid. Mind if I join you?”
“Have a seat, Mate. What are you
doing here in Brega?”
“Oh, I’m on a rig about 10 miles up
the road, and I thought I’d get some decent grub before I drive back. You’re
usually not in Brega, either. What are you flying?”
“They switched me off Beavers to
that DC-3 out on the runway. I’ll be in and out of here nearly every day for a
while.”
The waiter has just placed a decent-looking
steak in front of me, and I am thinking I’ll
be back to eat here more than once before I get through sitting the well I’m
assigned to. The steak is really good, and I am about to leave, but
something has just crossed my mind that stops me.
I turn back and sit down beside Sid.
“Sid, do you ever have any extra
room on the plane?”
“Yeah, every day, mate. We never
have more than a couple of guys. The plane is mostly for cargo.”
“What if a certain young lady just
happened to be at the airport a few days from now? Do you think you might give
her a lift down here?”
Sid is smiling, and I know those
risk-taking Aussies won’t turn down something like that.
“Well, I’m sure we can work
something out. How are you going to get the word to your wife?”
“If you have a few minutes, I’ll
write her a quick note. I’m going to tell her to come by the dispatcher’s
office and meet you next Monday. What time do you leave Benghazi?”
“I leave a little later than the
Beavers that shuttle you guys in and out of the desert—usually around eight-thirty.”
“Great; I’ll tell her just to walk
out to the DC–3, get on, and no one will ever know—or care.”
“You got it, Richard. Write the
letter.”
A few minutes later, I have an
invitation to Vertis that I hand to Sid.
“Just give it to the dispatcher when
you land. We’re always sending letters back and forth, and he’ll get it to
Vertis.”
“Okay, will do. After I take off
from Benghazi, and we’re in the air, I’ll radio you an ETA. I think it’ll be
better if you can pick her up out on the runway. No sense in having the folks
in this office wondering what a woman is doing here.”
“Gotcha. I’ll be by the radio
Monday morning waiting for your call.”
&
The first week of this desert
assignment is passing faster than most because I have Vertis’ visit on my mind,
and when I got up this morning, I decided to stay by the radio after I made my
morning report. Sid will be calling sometime in the next 30 minutes.
I have just left the communication
trailer, heading for Marsa Brega. Sid gave me an ETA of 9:32, and I will easily
make it there before Vertis arrives.
Marsa Brega is Esso Libya’s port
town on the Mediterranean. It’s located at the end of the pipeline from the
Libyan oil fields, and over a half-million barrels of Esso oil a day are loaded
on tankers destined mostly for the European refineries.
I’m dropping down toward the coast
now, and I can see the two dozen scattered houses, one airplane hangar, and a
dock for the tankers. I guess about 50 people live here year-round, loading the
tankers and working in a city that serves as a supply point for rigs in the
desert.
I stop at the edge of the runway,
waiting on the plane, and as I glance at my watch, I start looking for the
DC-3. There it comes, crosses my
mind, as see a DC-3 dropping like a rock for an approach. Yeah, it’s Sid all right—a carrier pilot’s approach.
I start my Land Rover and get ready
to drive out on the runway. Is she going
to be on the plane? Of course, Vertis knows it’s against company policy for
her to even fly on the cargo plane, and it sure is against the rules for her to
accompany me to a remote camp in the desert and spend the night at one of the
drill sites.
I’m waiting on the edge of the
airstrip in my Land Rover with the motor running, and I watch as Sid pulls up
short of the hangar and kills the right engine. Then the side cargo door opens.
Yes, she’s on the plane!
I roar out to the runway, and Vertis
hops out of the DC-3, just as I pull up.
“Hey, need a ride?” I yell. Vertis
jumps into my Land Rover, and we head for the desert. I’m sure the folks
waiting for the plane to pull up to the unloading dock wonder what’s happening.
We are out of town in five minutes, heading for rig 2.
“Richard, I can’t believe you
pulled this off,” Vertis says, laughing, as we drive along. “Aren’t you afraid
you’ll get in trouble?”
“Naaaa, they need geologists in the
worst way, and true love sometimes does some unusual things,” I say back.
“You mean true lust.”
We both laugh, and since we are in
love and giddy from just the experience, we don’t even think about the
consequences of violating company rules. Heck,
I’m thinking, they won’t fire me. They
need well site geologists—but it will be a written reprimand—won’t look too
good on my record—ah, forget it.
“How was the flight down?” I ask.
“Not bad; a little bumpy, and Sid
made me nervous when he dipped in and dropped like a rock to the runway.”
“Yeah, that’s the way Sid always
comes in. He was an Aussie carrier pilot before he started flying for Esso
Libya.”
“One other little thing; I fastened
my seat belt when we took off, and after we landed I stood up and the belt came
with me. It wasn’t attached to the plane.”
We pull up to the rig, and Vertis,
with her long, blonde hair, causes quite a stir among the crew, but the
tool-pusher and other Americans on the rig are my friends, and everyone thinks
it’s a fun thing to do, sneaking her in. I even take Vertis to the dining hall
that night for dinner, and she is literally the belle of the ball.
It’s after dinner now, and we’re
going to have a romantic reunion in my trailer.
&
The next morning we’re heading back
to Marsa Brega so Vertis can catch the DC-3 back to Benghazi. Sid taxies out to
the end of the runway and kills the engine on the side of the plane where the
cargo door is located. That’s my signal to drive out to the plane and deliver
Vertis. A quick kiss and Vertis hops on the plane.
The DC-3 roars down the runway, and
I’m driving back to spend another boring week on Rig 2. Actually, a geologist
doesn't need to be on the drill site every minute of the day. There are planes
available that can whisk us back and forth to the well sites, especially when
we are drilling surface holes. However, our district geologists like to err on
the side of caution, which means putting a geologist on the well when the
drilling begins, even though the first five or six days involve drilling
through what has been proven—at least so far—to be non-oil productive rocks.
Well, I will say one thing about
this location: There’s a lot more to see around here. The old pieces of junk
from World War II make it look like the Germans and Brits have just left. I
have to be more careful when I am this close to the coast. Land mines are
everywhere, and I make sure I don’t just drive off the road into an area
without any tracks.
I have been nosing around looking at
stuff for most of the day. It’d about 3 o’clock and I am about to turn around
and head back to the rig when I see something strange on the side of a low
cliff. As I get closer, I realize it is the remains of a crashed biplane, and
from its looks it must have come from World War I. It had crashed and burned, and
only the metal parts and the engine remained.
As I stand there looking at the old
biplane, it crosses my mind that Libya and North Africa have seen thousands of
battles between warring nations during the last 10,000 years of history. As I
look at the wreck of the old biplane, I’m guessing it’s Italian, and then not 20
yards away I see a German Jerry can.
The history of this country
sometimes overwhelms me.
.
Thursday, January 28, 2016
Libya and Big Six
.Excerpt from the new non-fiction book, Benghazi Journal by Richard Mason
Downtown Benghazi, June 1964
........While
I was downtown with the new employee’s man, he pointed out the Loffland
Brothers staff house where he said you could actually buy a hamburger. I’m
thinking that will be supper, and since it’s not but a few blocks away from the
hotel, I’m going to walk. It’s a little upsetting having to walk most of the
way in the street because most of the building are so close to the pavement
that there’s not room for a sidewalk. I’ve had to almost push my way through a
bunch of eight to ten years old kids who are faking being poor so they can beg.
I’ve been warned so I just try to ignore them. Yes, there’s the Loffland Brothers Staff House. As I walk in, I’m
really not sure what to expect, but after I see a bar and some tables, it’s
really not much different from a beer joint back home.
A big guy, and I mean big is walking
up to meet me.
“You’re new, ain’t ya.”
“Yeah, I’m a geologist for Esso.”
“Well, welcome to the asshole of
North Africa. I’m Big Six.”
I know I look a little puzzled, and
he nods and says, “Naw it ain’t my real name, but that what everybody calls me.
Actually, most just calls me “Six.””
“Well, I’m glad to meet you, Six. I’m
Richard Mason.”
“Do they call you Dick?”
“Not to my face,” I quip.
“Ha, I like that! Come on, let’s go
over to the bar, and I’ll buy you a beer.”
“Okay, but the Esso man told me I
could get a hamburger here. I’m starving so let’s order a burger with that
beer.”
“You got it…Dick!”
Heck, it was hard not to like Big Six
or Six as everyone was calling him, and after the sorriest hamburger I have
ever eaten and two beers, we really hit it off. Buddying up to Six was exactly
like talking to an old river rat down on the Ouachita River in South Arkansas. I
found out more about living in Libya and what not and what to do than all the
employee manuals and company men told me. I left the Staff House knowing I’d be
back and not only for the hamburgers. I really like being around the crews of
roughnecks from the rigs. It made me feel at home.......
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