Coming Soon!
Benghazi Journal
Benghazi, Libya, June
1st, 1964
In the spring of 1964 I
took a transfer from Exxon USA to Esso Libya. My new position was to work as a
well-site geologist, assigned to the Benghazi, Libya office. When my wife,
Vertis, and I moved to Benghazi, we were only two years out of college, and neither
of us had ever traveled or lived outside of the southwestern United States. Our
time spent in Libya was immediately prior to the overthrow of King Idris’s
monarchy by Colonel Omar Gadhafi. The impending coup was evident to us as we
interacted with Libyans on a daily basis, and observed the unrest in the
country. Before we left Benghazi there were riots in the street, and one night
we were caught up in a wild, screaming demonstration in a movie theater. I
managed to push my way through the crowd, and pull Vertis out of the theater
unscathed. We lived on the economy. Our
next door neighbors were the English Consulate’s daughter and across the street
lived an Iranian family. Trying to communicate with our family back home, other
than letter writing, was almost impossible. My job required me to fly 150 to
250 miles every two weeks into the Libyan Sahara Desert and spend sometimes as
long as three weeks on a drilling rig before returning to Benghazi. I was one of several geologists who were
responsible for determining if oil was present as the wells were drilled. During one of my many drives across the
road-less desert, I became lost in a sandstorm for the better part of a day and
night, and a few weeks later, I was on a drilling rig when the well blew-out.
For a short time it scattered everyone, and there were some very anxious
moments before the crew got it under control. I also supervised the testing of
a giant discovery oil well, which later produced over 10,000 barrels of oil a
day. But the highlight or maybe the lowlight of my time in Libya happened in
mid-July during the last month of my two year assignment. I traveled over 800 miles southeast of
Benghazi to a remote French drilling rig near the Algerian border. It was
located in the Red Sand Desert of Libya where, because the red sand traps solar
heat, a world record temperature of 138 degrees had been recorded very near
where the well was located. When we flew down from Tripoli in an old DC-3 to
the location and tried to find the drilling rig, we encountered a huge
sandstorm. After circling in the sandstorm for several hours---which was living
hell---we, tried to return to Tripoli. As we approached the runway we had to
make an emergency landing. We ran out of gasoline as we landed. The next
morning the sandstorm had abated, and we flew down to the rig, and twenty-three
days later, I finally flew back to Benghazi. During my time in the desert, I
dodged some of the three million land mines left over from World War II,
traveled cross-country to the home of the World War two British Long Rang
Desert Group’s wartime camp at Kufura Oasis, and journeyed farther south to the
Lady be Good, an American B-24 bomber,
which because of a navigation error, had landed deep in the desert. The remains
of the crew were found in 1959. They died trying to walk out of the desert. Vertis
and I made friends with a number of Libyans, and interacted and worked with
others during the two years we lived in Benghazi. This book is an account of
those two years. It is a window into how life was in Libya before Gadhafi, and
before the more recent revolution sent a once peaceful country spiraling into
chaos.
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